Hudson Jet

OIL CHECK VALVE

DISASSEMBLY

1. Remove the cover screws (1), Figure 2, cover (2) and gasket (3).
2. Hold hand over cover opening and with the pump upside down, turn shaft until the pump rotor (4) falls out in the hand.
3. Drive out straight pin (10) which holds pump drive gear to pump shaft.
4. Press shaft (7) out of gear (9) by supporting the oil pump body (8) on the cover face in an arbor press allowing the inner rotor and shaft to clear when pressing the shaft out of hte pump gear.
5. Wash all parts in cleaning solvent and dry with compressed air.

INSPECTION

1. Install rotors and shaft in pump body with the inner rotor located so that one lobe of the inner rotor contacts the corresponding notch in the outer rotor. Measure the clearance between the opposite lobe of the inner and outer rotor. This clearnace should be .010" or less. If more that this, replace both rotors and shaft.
2. With rotors and shaft assembled in the pump body place a striaght edge across the pump body between the screw holes and using a feeler gauge, measure the clearance between the top of the rotors and the straight edge. This clearance should be .004" or less. If the clearance is greater than this limit, the pump body must be replaced.
3. With the outer rotor (4) pressed against one side of the pump body, with a feeler gauge measure the clearnace between the outer rotor and pump body at the opposite side. If this clearance is more than .008", replace the pump body.
4. Body cover (2) should be smooth. It should be replaced if scratched, grooved or worn. Lay a straight edge across the inner surface of cover and check with .002" feeler gauge between the cover and straight edge. If the feeler gauge can be inserted, the cover is worn and must be replaced.

ASSEMBLY

1. Install the outer rotor (4) in the pump body (8), Figure 2.
2. Slide the pump shaft (7) and rotor (5) assembly into the pump body.
3. Support oil pump body, shaft and rotors assembly on a clean surface and press pump drive gear (9) on pump shaft (7). End play between the hub of the drive gear and pump body should be .004" to .008".
4. Install gear pin and peenover both ends securely.
5. After inspecting to see that pump is thoroughly clean, install cover gasket (3) in the recess in the pump body.
6. Install cover (2). Tighten cover screws (1) evenly and securely.

INSTALLATION

1. Remove the distributor mounting screw, disconnect the distributor vacuum control tube, disconnect the coil lead wire and remove the distributor.
2. Set dampener timing with the No. 1 piston on T.D.C.
3. Insert aligning tool J-2794 in the distributor shaft hole with the aligning pin in line with the distributor mounting screw hole, Figure 3.

4. Install the oil pump, engaging the oil pump drive gear with the camshaft worm gear teeth. The pump shaft must be aligned to engage the shaft slot with the tongue on the end of the aligning tool. Then push the tool out as the pump is seated against the block mounting face.
5. Remove aligning tool J-2794.
6. Set distributor in No. 1 firing position and install.
7. Install distributor mounting screw, distributor cap, distributor vacuum control tube and connect the coil lead wire.

OIL PAN

REMOVAL

1. Raise car and place stand jacks under the No. 2 frame crossmember.
2. Remove the three bolts attaching the center steering arm support bracket to the No. 2 crossmember. This permits the center steering arm and tie rods to drop.
3. Remove the two attaching bolts, flywheel dust cover to bell-housing, and remove dust cover.
4. Remove oil pan drain plug and drain oil.
5. Remove bolts and lockwashers attaching oil pan to cylinder block and remove oil pan.

INSPECTION

1. Remove all traces of old gaskets from the pan and crankcase. Install new gasket, applying a light coat of Hudson Perfec Seal Gasket Paste on both sides of the new gasket.
2. Remove cotter pin (1) Figure 5, attaching oil pan screen to the outlet pipe. Clean screen throughly or replace.
3. Install oil pan screen to oulet pipe. Check to be certain there is no binding action and screen swivels freely.
4. Secure ends of cotter pin.

INSTALLATION

1. Install rubber gasket on the outlet tube.
2. Install the oil pan to the engine, using two screws on each side until all screws have been started.
3. Tighten oil pan screws evenly to 15 to 20 pounds torque.
4. Install oil pan drain plug.
5. Install flywheel dust cover.
6. Install center steering arm support bracket and tighten bolts securely.
7. Fill oil pan with 5-½ quarts of motor oil of the recommended viscosity.

CYLINDER BLOCK - LOCATING HOLE PLUG

CYLINDER HEAD

REMOVAL

1. Drain cooling system.
2. Loosen carburetor air horn attaching screw and clamp and lift off air cleaner.
3. Disconnect and remove vacuum advance control tube.
4. Disconnect top radiator hose.
5. Disconnect heater hoses (if so equipped).
6. Disconnect throttle rod at carburetor.
7. Disconnect temperature gauge wire at cylinder head sender unit.
8. Disconnect spark plug wires and remove spark plugs.
9. Remove cylinder head cap screws and lift off cylinder head.
10. Remove temperature gauge sender unit from cylinder head.

INSTALLATION

1. Make certain cylinder head is free of carbon and dirt. Check cylinder head with a straight edge to detect roughness or warping, expecially in those instances of frequent "blowing" of head gaskets. With a ,010" feeler gauge, check between the straight edge and the machined surface of the cylinder head. If the feeler gauge enters at any point, the head must be remachined or replaced.
2. Install new head gasket with lettering on gasket up. (Apply a light coating of "Hudson Perfect Seal Gasket Paste".)

3. Cylinder head cap screws should be tightened to 75-80 foot pounds, (Cold) using a torque wrench and retighten when engine is at normal operating temperature.

4. Cylinder head cap screws should be tightened in the sequence illustrated in Figure 7.

VALVE SYSTEM

VALVE TAPPET ADJUSTMENT

1. Remove right front wheel.
2. Remove fender side shield.
3. Remove valve covers and breather. Adjust tappets as follows:
   1. Intake  .010" hot
   2. Exhaust  .012" hot

VALVE REMOVAL

1. Drain cooling system.
2. Remove cylinder head. See "Cylinder Head Removal".
3. Raise car and remove right front wheel and fender shield with extension.
4. Remove front and rear valve covers and crankcase breather tube.
5. Compress valve springs and remove spring keepers and retainers (use tool KMO-484 Valve Spring Lifter).

6. Remove valves from engine and place them in proper sequence in a valve rack to assure their installation on the seats from which they were removed.
7. Check all valves and replace those badly burned, warped or cracked.

REFACING VALVES

REFACING VALVE SEATS

STANDARD CLEARNACES

VALVE GUIDES & VALVE STEMS

VALVE TAPPETS

PISTONS, RINGS & CONNECTING RODS

REMOVAL

PISTON & SIZE CODE

KEY TO CODE MARKINGS - PISTON, CYLINDER, RING SIZES

PISTON RINGS - PRODUCTION

as suggested in Hudson Service Merchandiser Vol. 5, No. 8, August 1953

JET RINGS:

Compression and oil rings used in the Jet Engines in production are of the following sizes: standard and 10 thousandths oversize. These are shown listed on Page 63 of the Group Parts Catalog.

Both the upper and lower compression rings have a 50 degree bevel on the inside, and must be installed on the piston with this bevel TOWARD THE TOP. The object of this is to cause a slight twist in the ring when closed in a cylinder bore and produce a line contact between the cylinder wall at the lower edge of the ring. This effects a highly efficient seal.

The upper compression ring may be identified by the fact that it is chrome plated on the outer diameter. Chrome plating not only reduces friction, increases efficiency and affords greater protection to those rings, but also prolongs their life.

The lower compression ring has a Granoseal process coating. Both rings are of the same width, 5/64 of one inch, and the tension when closed to cylinder size is 7¼ to 11¼ pounds.

The upper oil ring is Granoseal processed and 3/16 of an inch wide. The lower oil ring is a plain turned ring, 5/32 of an inch wide. The tension of both rings when closed to cylinder size is 8 to 12 pounds.

4-C AND 5-C RINGS:

The compression and oil rings used in the 4-C and 5-C Engines in production are standard and 10 thousandths oversize, as are shown on Page 63 of the 1953 Group Parts Catalog.

The upper and lower compression rings are the same. The cylinder contact surface is tin or Cadium plated. Both rings are 5/64 of an inch in width. The closing pressure is 8½ to 12½ pounds.

The upper oil ring is .1865/.186 wide and is tin plated. The lower ring is .155/.154 wide and is Granoseal treated. The closing pressure of the upper oil ring is 11 to 15 pounds, that of the lower is 6 to 10 pounds.

7-C RINGS:

Four rings -two compression and two oil rings- are carried on the pistons of the 7-C Engine. The production sizes are standard and 10 thousandths oversize. The upper compression ring has a bevel cut on the inside and must be installed with this bevel TO THE TOP of piston. The lower compression ring has a .0005 taper on the outer face and has the word TOP stamped on the ring land to designate its installed position.

The upper compression ring is 5/64 of an inch wide and is chrome plated on the outer diameter. The closing pressure is 9½ to 13½ pounds. The lower compression ring, also 5/64 of an inch in width, is Cadium or tin plated, having a closing pressure of 10 to 14 pounds.

The upper oil ring is 3/16 of an inch wide, tin plated on the outer diameter, and the closing pressure is 11 to 15 pounds. The lower oil ring is .154/.155 wide, is Granoseal processed and has a closing pressure of 6 to 10 pounds.

The gap clearance of all rings is.004 to .009. Rings must fit free in ring groove with no tendency to bind. When installing rings on pistons, BE SURE that successive rings are assembled in the grooves with their gap on opposite sides of center line of the retaining pin.

Should the top ring be installed with the short half of the notch on the right side of the pin, the second rings must then be installed withthe short half on the left side of the pin and the third in the same relative position as the first. Note illustration above.

PISTON RINGS - SERVICE

For Service replacement, the following piston rings sets are available: Sealed Power Kromex, Steel Segment Type and Cast Iron Type. Ring sizes are standard and .020 oversize for the 202, 232, 262 and 308 Cubic Inch Engines. For the 254 Cubic Inch Engine (1946-1952, 8 Cyl.), standard, .010 and .020 oversize.

Kromex is a premium replacement ring set and is specially designed for installation without the necessity of reconditioning cylinders. The compression rings seat to cylinders rapidly due to a slight taper on the outer face. The top compression ring is of chrome bonded to the face of the ring to double resistance to heat, corrosion, friction, scuffing and border-line lubrication. A specially designed spring behind the upper oil ring not only makes for even distribution of wall pressure, but also effects immediate control of oil and prevents blocking of the oil return holes in piston. The sides of all rings are Granosealed to assure proper lubrication.

Steel Segment Type oil ring is also highly satisfactory for use without reconditioning the cylinders, where the original rings are worn and there is some taper or out of round in cylinders. Both upper compression rings are tapered for rapid seating. The upper compression ring is supplemented by steel segments, both at the upper and lower ring land. The specially designed Full Flow inner spring is also used with this ring.

Cast Iron Type ring set is similar to the original production rings. It is recommended that the cylinder walls be trued-up when this set is used for replacement. All rings are Granoseal treated.

The upper ring of each of the above replacement ring sets has a bevel cut-off on the inner face and the ring must be installed with this bevel TOWARD THE TOP. All second compression rings are tapered, the rings having the mark TOP on the ring land. An expander spring is used behind the second compression ring and the upper oil ring of all three replacement ring sets.

To avoid damaging piston rings or pistons use KMO-297 Piston Ring Remover and Installer of the correct size.

Complete instructions applying to the installation of various oversize service piston ring sets are contained on each ring wrapper or on a sheet packed within the box.

PISTON FITTING

CYLINDER BORING

PISTON PINS

CONNECTING RODS

PLASTIGAGE METHOD

1. Remove the bearing caps one at a time and insert a length of plastigage slightly shorter than the cap width.
2. Install the bearing cap with a new standard insert and tighten to 40 to 45 foot pounds torque. Do not rotate the crankshaft while the plastigage is in place.
3. Remove the bearing cap and check the width of the flattened plastigage. If the width is not over .00225", a standard bearing should be installed.

SHIM METHOD

1. Place brass shim stock .0015" thick, 1/2" wide by 7/8" long in the bearig cap with a new standard bearing in place.
2. Tighten the bearing cap to 40 to 45 foot pounds torque.
3. Try to move the rod endwise by hand, then tap lightly with a hammer. If the rod will not move by hand, but moved when tapped with the hammer, a standard bearing should be used. If the rod can be moved by hand, install an undersize bearing.

CONNECTING ROD BEARING SIZES, CRANKPIN DIAMETERS AND CONNECTING ROD BORES

CRANKSHAFT

ENGINE REMOVAL

1. Remove the two hood hinge bolts from each side at the rear of the hood.
2. Lift and remove hood.
3. Drain cooling system, open drain at bottom right side of radiator. Remove drain plug from left rear side of the engine.
4. Disconnect the throttle linkage.
5. Disconnect the fuel line at the junction of the fuel pump flexible hose and steel gas line.
6. Remove the bolts from the exhaust pipe to the exhaust manifold flange.
7. Remove the radiator hoses.
8. Disconnect the remote control rods at the transmission.
9. Disocnnect the wire at the starter motor and remove the cable from the battery.
10. Disconnect the water temperature gauge wire from the side of the cylinder head.
11. Disconnect the oil gauge light wire.
12. Disconnect the vacuum tube from the windshield wiper motor.
13. Remove the two generator lead wires.
14. Disconnect the primary coil wire.
15. Remove slotted head screw holding the breather tube to the rear tappet cover.
16. Remove the bolt from the bracket attching the breather to the engine end plate.,/li>
17. Remove the nine hexagon head self-tapping screws holding the hood lock lower support panel to the fender tie panel and remove the support panel.
18. Remove the four hex bolts attaching the radiator to the channel, also remove the four nuts located inside the radiator channel. Lift the radiator up and out of the channel.
19. Remove the two front engine mounting bolt nuts.
20. Drain engine oil.
21. Disconnect the rear end of the propeller shaft at the rear axle companion flange, lower shaft and pull rearward out of transmission. Remove transmission.
22. Remove the nuts from the clutch throwout lever release rod.
23. Attach motor lift bracket and raise engine up and out of chassis, and place engine up and out of chassis, and place engine on bench or motor rebuilding stand.